Tignon wrapped hair
Afro-textured has been a source of pride for the different ethnic groups in Africa. Hair tells a story of a person’s status in society, family wealth, and lineage. Hair plaited in various shapes and styles was used to tell friends or foes and was a source of pride. Then the arrival of the Europeans changed everything.
People were ferried across seas and traded as little more than cattle. Set to work on plantations in a new land with their identities stripped from them. One of these identifier was their hair. As early as the 1700s, black people would be subjected to hearing how anything other than straight European hair was unacceptable. Afro-textured hair was considered dirty, unkempt, unruly, nappy.
In the late, 1700s slaves were able to purchase their freedom in New Orleans which led to a rise in interracial marriages in Louisiana. This led to Charles III of Spain demanding the colonial governor Esteban Miro to "'establish public order and proper standards of morality,' with specific reference to a "large class" of "mulattos" and particularly "mulatto" women.'" (Winters, 2016, 77) These women wore jewels and feathers in their hair which “attracted” the white man.
This rolled into women covering their hair with a tignon. This didn't stop them from styling up these wraps though. Using colorful wraps of bright blue, red, and yellow to cover up their hair. These headwraps did not stop them from expressing themselves. They added feathers, and jewels to style it up.
During the 1870s, hot combs were widely used by the black community to straighten their hair. These combs were heated and then used to straighten the hair, providing a smoother and more controlled look.
Chemical straighteners, credited to Garrett Morgan in 1877, such as relaxers, also became popular. They were used to alter the hair's texture, making it straighter.
In the early 1900s, it became more common to see Black people striving to meet white beauty standards. Madame CJ Walker, an African-American woman, took advantage of this trend by creating a line of hair care products that made it easier to straighten afro-textured hair. Selling these products made her the first well-known self-made millionaire in America. This led to the rise of the iconic "press and curl" hairstyle (Ganley, 2021).
Then, in 1954, the first commercial at-home hair "permanent" was introduced for Black men to straighten their hair. Soon after, women also started using this treatment on a large scale. Around 1970, a similar treatment called the Jheri curl, or curly perm, gained immense popularity.
However, during the Black Panther movement in the 1960s and 1970s, there was a shift towards embracing natural hair. This movement encouraged black individuals to embrace their natural hair texture, celebrating and expressing pride in their heritage. It was a powerful statement of self-acceptance and cultural identity.
The Black Panther Party's emphasis on black pride and self-determination played a significant role in challenging the beauty standards that had long favored Eurocentric features. This movement sparked a cultural revolution, inspiring many to wear their hair in its natural state and reject the pressure to conform to mainstream ideals of beauty.
As more African-American men and women grow tired of harmful chemical treatments like relaxers, damaging weaves, heat tools, and improper hair care practices, there is a renewed interest in embracing and caring for natural hair.
With the start of the natural hair movement in the 2000s, afro hairstyles were showing up more often in popular culture. From movies that had actors and actresses rock their natural hair in plaits, afros, cornrows, or braids, natural hair was now more in your face than ever before.
Natural hair vloggers on YouTube played a significant role in making natural hair more accessible and manageable for many people. These vloggers share their personal experiences, tips, and techniques for caring for and styling natural hair. Their tutorials and product recommendations have been incredibly helpful for those transitioning to natural hair or looking for new styles to try.
In addition to the vloggers, several hair brands have also played a crucial role in making natural hair more manageable. They have developed products specifically designed to cater to the unique needs of natural hair, such as moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. These brands have focused on using natural ingredients and avoiding harsh chemicals that can be damaging to natural hair.
In the 2010s, more and more people started embracing natural hairstyles, thanks to influential celebrities like Viola Davis, Lupita Nyong'o, Ava DuVernay, and Stacey Abrams who proudly rocked their natural hair. However, this surge in popularity also brought attention to dress codes and hair regulations, leading to unfair treatment of African American workers and students across the United States. They faced punishment simply because of their hair. Thankfully, people became aware of this issue, and in July 2019, California took a stand by passing the Crown Act. This made California the first state in the U.S. to ban discrimination against workers and students based on their natural hair.
So far, twenty-three states have passed similar legislation, but there is no equivalent law at the federal level
In conclusion, the history of Afro-textured hair is a testament to the resilience and strength of African people. Despite centuries of oppression and discrimination, there is a growing movement towards embracing natural hair and reclaiming cultural identity. Let us continue to celebrate and uplift the beauty of all hair types, promoting inclusivity and self-acceptance.
References
Ganley, M. (2021, January 18). From hot combs to hair grease: The journey behind afro-textured hair in America. KSAT. Retrieved February 22, 2024, from https://www.ksat.com/features/2020/02/25/from-hot-combs-to-hair-grease-the-journey-behind-afro-textured-hair-in-america/
Winters, L. Z. (2016). The Mulatta Concubine: Terror, Intimacy, Freedom, and Desire in the Black Transatlantic. University of Georgia Press.
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